Collar and the like



Jan. 29, 1946. J. H. SKINKLE ETAL COLLAR AND THE LIKE Filed April 20, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 1' ATTORNEY Jan. 29, 1946. J. H. SKINKLE ETAL 2,393,328

- COLLAR AND THE LIKE Filed April 20, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 ATTORJI E'Y Patented Jan. 29, 1946 coLLAnANn THE 111KB John H. Skinkle, 'Chclmsford, Mass and Louis Weinstein, Yonkers, N. Y., assignors to Phillips- Jones Corporation. New York, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application April 20, 1944, Serial No. 531,856

2 Claims. (CI. 139-3855) This invention relates to collars of multi-ply construction, by which we mean collars made of 'multi-ply, interwoven fabric and having a body or turned-over portion constituting the I outer flap of the collar. The invention will be described in reference to a collar permanently attached to the shirt but it is, of course, equally adaptable to the separate collar.

One shortcoming of the multi-ply collar, in use, has been the rather early development of a raspy condition at the fold and-this invention provides simple and effective means for eliminating that defect and thus prolonging the-useful life of the collar.

It has been thought that the rasping effect was caused simply by the application of starch in the laundry, but we have discovered that the effect is occasioned primarily by warp yarns moving out of place at the fold-line. This movement of the warp threads forms troughs, and the edges of the troughs are exposed to more than their share of thesurface friction in wearing and washing and consequently are soon abraded and become raspy. v

The present invention, while maintaining flexibility at the fold-line, provides a structure in which the warp yarns are not only of suflicient number, but are so arranged and held in the weave, and with respect to the underlying ply or plies, as to be substantially incapable of migratached to a shirt;

Fig. 3 is'an enlarged cross-section of the fold-,

zone (before folding), on line 3-4 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 4 is a view of Fig. 3 curved as in the folded collar;

Fig. 5 is a cross-section on line 5-5 of Fig. 2; Figs. 6 and '7 are views similar to Figs. 3 and 4,

respectively, but illustrating improvements of.

fold-zone construction according to the present invention; and

Fig. 8 is a view enlarged (as in a photomicrograph) to better show the relationship of the yarns in the fold-zones of Figs. 6 and 7.

The collar of Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 comprises a b0dy or outer panel 20, a-narrow fold-line, or

zone, 2|, and an insertion band 22 which is sewed to the neckband' IQ of the shirt. The portions 20, 2| and 22 are woven in one piece of multi-ply fabric, the bodyPrtion 20 consisting of successive warp-repeats," each of which comprises two face warp threads 25, two back warp threads 26, a binder warp thread 21, with face and back weft or filling threads 23 and 24, respectively. Gut warp threads 28 float between the face and back plies and are held intermediate the binder threads of successive repeats. For

* ply as warps and binders, while the weft or filling threads are usually referred to as fillers or fillings."

It will be noted that, in the fold-zone, many of the binder warps 2'! are omitted, leaving only one binder for every three or four face warps 25, and at the same time the number of back warps 26 is reduced. Furthermore, the gut warps 28 are omitted entirely. With this construction flexibility of the fold-zone was achieved, but despite the fact that the face ply was well filled with warp and filling threads, there being many more face warps than back warps within the fold-zone, durability and comfort, as measured by use and wash resistance, was not obtained. In fact, a collar so constructed would not, in many cases, last as long as other parts of the shirt, even though it had far greater tensile strength than the fabric used in making the balance of the garment.

Reference to Fig. 4 will illustrate what we have found to be the seat of difflculty at the fold in collars of this type. It will be noted that because of insufficient binding of the face ply to the back ply, and because of the relatively open construction of the back ply, a number of the face warps 25 have moved radially inwardly with reference to their proper positions on arc 30, form- I ing troughs 29. The edges of these troughs. after abrasion in laundering with consequent breakage of fibers provide the rasping effect when stifliened with starch, the troughs being forced open when the collar is folded after ironing.

Figs. 6, '7 and 8 illustrate the present invention. The fabric of the foldzone 4| consists of equally spaced face warps 45 alternating with equally spaced binders 41, a back warp 46 opposite each third face warp, face filling engaging the face warps and binders, and back fillings 44 engaging the back warps and binders. this construction the face warps are held securely against migration, firstly by reason of the anchoring effect of the binders, and secondly by reason of the relationship of the back warps, the latter being similarly held against migration so that there is no space into which the face warps may migrate.

It is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the specific embodiment herein illus- .both sides thereof, comprising face ply and rear ply weft threads disposed substantially perpendicular to the longitudinal extent of .said fold mne. face ply warps woven with said face ply weft s,sos,sas

threads, rear ply warps woven with said rear ply weft threads. and-binder warps woven with both said face and rear ply weft threads, said fold zone portion having a face ply warp contiguous to each binder warp and having a ratio of one face-ply warp to one-binder warp and I one rear ply warp toeach three binder warps.

2. A multiply fabric in accordance with claim .1, comprising in addition gut warps adjacent m to the junction lines only between said fold zone portion and atlea'st one of said body portions.

JOHN H. SHNKLE. LOUIS WEINSTEIN. 

